Where the Tile Meets the Tub

Where the Tile Meets the Tub

Adam helps with a variety of callers concerned about leaky tubs, grouting, and bathroom installation.


Show Summary

Adam’s first caller today is a 24-year-old homeowner. Adam talks with him about his Cedar Rooftops, and discusses refinishing oak cabinets with another caller. He also talks with someone about the proper way to use grouting, and becomes wildly jealous of a stay at home Dad.

Adam discusses a leaking tub with another call. He suggests the guy throw some gloves on and strip everything down to begin repairs. Adam also explains the difference between tile mastic and tile clue, and talks about the crucial tool kit every guy should have. The last caller wants to install a bathroom on a concrete slab, and Adam tries to figure out the exact layout of the guy’s house.

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Show Credits

Executive Producer: Donny Misraje
Associate Producer: Katie Levine
Show Summary: Matt Fondiler
Web Engineering: Sandy Ganz

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22 Responses to “Where the Tile Meets the Tub”

  1. Tolley
    2011/02/26 at 5:46 am #

    Love the show, Listen every week, hope to get thru to talk to Ace soon.

  2. nater
    2011/02/26 at 6:35 am #

    Good looking sweater, Ace. Get it on!

  3. Dan
    2011/02/26 at 11:47 am #

    What happened to Adam on Howard 101…anyone??

    • MrSKIA
      2011/02/28 at 12:15 pm #

      I’ve been looking for information on that myself, and have come up empty. Anyone here know?

  4. Matt
    2011/02/26 at 2:43 pm #

    Got an idea for the first caller. If he’s looking to paint his cedar siding himself and the paint is peeling, then you might want to check out the paint shaver. Go to paintshaver.com and check it out. It’s pricey but a lot cheaper than having someone scrape and paint it for you. I don’t work for the company I’ve just used this tool before and it works really good. Like a brand new surface when your done.

  5. Chris from Lakeland, FL
    2011/02/26 at 4:30 pm #

    Jeff with the oak cabinets needs to consider previous Ace advice, instead of dismantling and dipping, then refinishing those cabinets. Faux Finish. Go all around and lightly scuff the clear finish everywhere, with brass or steel wool, and/or sandpaper, just to scuff every surface a bit. Buy some Tack Rags (tacky cheese cloth in little plastic packets), and wipe everything down to get rid of dust. This is all easier if you also remove the doors and drawer faces, first.

    Start with the edges and detailed grooves and take a soft rag (an old T Shirt will work) and gently get some stain onto/into those areas; quicly wipe off any stain that gets onto nice, smooth, flat faces. Once the edges and details are done, start spreading the stain over the flat surfaces, starting at on edge, sweeping with the grain, all the way to the far edge. If you mess up, just wipe it off.

    That’s how you create a faux finish, your rag sweeping motion creating the faux grain pattern. A rag is better than a brush, because it creates a better, accidental, grain pattern. Try it; whatever you don’t like, you quickly wipe off. You can do this with almost any surface, even Formica-faced cabinets.

    It would be a shame to go to all that work and ruin perfectly good oak, finished, cabinets, with a stain. If you want a different look, just put a careful fake look on the outside, as opposed to allowing a dark stain to soak into the actual oak, screwing the next person that may not want a dark look.

    The tricky part to this is getting the solid oak attached to the boxes, right. Pieces meet at right angles and you have to get the joints right. The rag sweeps one direction, to get one board looking right, then you have to bring the rag down for a landing, just right, to get the board at a right angle looking good; keep a little brush handy, to touch up those right angle joints. This is vastly faster than stripping down to bare wood and you just quickly wipe away anything you don’t like.

    Hit everything you are happy with, with a couple of coats of clear finish. I’ve done it both ways, many times; I recommend you add the fake stain, rather than strip down to bare wood, unless you are doing a restoration.

    But that’s just me.

    And mastic is glue. That guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Whomever taught him that, whatever class he learned that in, they are wrong. Mastic is a reinforced glue, usually with some fibers in it. Old mastics have asbestos fibers in them and hold up forever. Asbestos is not carbon. Modern mastics have non-asbestos fibers in them that are mostly carbon-based, which are crap, because they rot. Carbon (tree fiber, or made from oil)) equals rotting fibers. It has nothing to do with the glue-base in a mastic, but the fiber in the mastic that makes it rot. Construction Adhesive, no fiber, but no flexibility. Mastic, fiber skeleton in a glue, more flexible than Thin Set. Thin Set, no fiber, not really an elastic, gluey materia, dries into an inflexible rock that just breaks away from what you are trying to glue, if there is movement. If you need flexibility, you have to use mastic, or caulk. Rot is not the factor, movement is. With modern, non-asbestos mastics, the fibers will rot, so you are basically using construction adhesive, once moisture gets to the fibers.

    Under NAFTA, you can buy mastics from Canada or Mexico, that are full of asbestos; it’s leagal, there. In any store you walk in, you can fill your basket with products full of asbestos. Where mastics are concerned, this is not a big deal. You want a flexible, long-lasting mastic for certain projects, like hanging a big mirror in your OWN house? Get the good stuff, from Canada or Mexico. But never use that stuff on a commercial job. And never, ever, buy that dry-mix joint compound for drywall work, in your house or anywhere else; that stuff is loaded with asbestos, as it usually comes from Mexico. Not a big deal? People sand drywall mud; they don’t sand the glue behind a mirror.

    Sorry to be lengthy here, guys, but I was trying to cram as much as I could into one post, before I had to run. Amongst other things, I am an AHERA commercial and industrial inspector and those first two letters stand for Asbestos Hazard. I gotta run.


  6. Ras
    2011/02/26 at 8:57 pm #

    Ace – love these shows and I think it takes a brilliant talent to be able to carry these shows all on your own. I can listen to you on my iPod wherever I go – to the grocery store, gym, driving around – your nasally drone is like my inner Mr. Miyagi whispering in my ear thru my iPod. BTW, have you considered ever doing some short video productions of your handiwork? I am thinking of some brief edited shorts that could even provide to go virally – you are far more entertaining then anything on any of those HGTV shows – here are some examples already on YouTube.
    Also – how about getting Genevieve Gorder on this show? I remember when you had her on Loveline and she seemed to “get” your sense of humor and I thought that was a good show. Plus she is hot.

  7. Dano
    2011/02/27 at 8:18 am #

    That first guy was just talking to a shitty painter. I’m a painting contractor, and unless that siding is totally fucked and rotted out or something, a good paint job with proper prep should give him 7-10 years. Slow-dry oil primer baby..

  8. Guy
    2011/02/27 at 10:47 am #

    New name for the show – “House Love Line”. You! call in with your questions.

    Will never miss a show.

  9. Poochie's Uncle
    2011/02/28 at 6:54 am #

    That’s a well positioned microphone.

  10. Cathy
    2011/03/02 at 4:37 am #

    I love this show. I appreciate Ace explaining what the callers already know. I have no clue about home improvement, so I benefit from the explanations.

  11. Steve
    2011/03/07 at 10:55 am #

    I’m not sure what kind of basements Adam has seen in the past, but I’ve never seen any basement in the midwest that has the iron waste pipe running above/atop the slab. They’re always buried under the concrete floor – at least in any house that wasn’t built within the last few years. I’ve helped a couple of friends to put 3/4 baths in their basements and done plenty of ripping up the slaps to connect the new waste lines.

  12. zapoli
    2011/03/08 at 4:37 pm #

    Very few houses in California have basements. Therefore the sewer mains are laid out for ground-floor lateral lines.

    And to the guy who went on at length about faux-finishing the oak cabinets. You must be either joking or insane.

  13. Steve
    2011/03/09 at 10:15 pm #

    I’m loving this podcast.

    I’m heading out to westwood power tools this weekend to buy my new table saw. I told them over the phone I’m doing it because they sponsored Adam!

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