Just The Tip

Just The Tip

Rust inhibitors, Schluter systems, and how to pronounce ‘chassis’. Learn about it all on this week’s episode with Adam and Ray.

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Show Summary

Adam and Ray open the show with a revamped segment: ‘Just the Tip’. Ray talks toilets, and Adam discusses an incident with a microwaved egg. The guys then respond to a video question about a corroded drain, and Adam makes fun of the Porcelain Punisher for not knowing what a chassis is. Later the guys answer email questions about doorjambs and Mangria cellars. As the show wraps up, the guys follow up with a caller about Schluter systems, and Ray briefly discusses his Twitter battles.

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Show Credits

Producers: Matt Fondiler & Gary Smith
Audio/Post-Production/Show Summary: Matt Fondiler
Phones/Researcher/Web Engineer: Gary Smith

Ace on the House Theme Song: Jason Boots (hear more music at http://JasonBoots.com)


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10 Responses to “Just The Tip”

  1. E. Norma Stitz
    2013/07/13 at 7:26 am #

    Ray, Please buy a few new shirts. I really like the two shirts you currently own, so I trust your taste in shirts, but you’ve got to go out there and get a few more. You’re saving a ton of money buy not buying shoes and pants so there’s no reason….

  2. Chris from Lakeland, FL
    2013/07/13 at 12:19 pm #

    Floor Drain Guy, I really think you should consider popping that drain line out of the space. perhaps a bit higher, if that’s what it takes. I would do thatt, unless I used that floor drain to drain the floor from periodic cleaning,or whatever.

    That old cast iron is “Jacking” apart and it won’t get any better. Even that 2 inch line may be jacking and possibly sloughing off, clogging the pipe. You can try a Rust Converter product (not inhibitor), if you can get the whole line absolutely dry. It actually converts the rust into a shell that protects the metal from air. That’s the problem: iron, plus water, plus air. That drain line isn’t always flooded, so it gets air in it and that leads to rust. If you can’t pop out a new line, try to dry it completely, then plug the far end and pour in some Rust Converter, let that sit for a bit, then drain it and take the waste to a haz waste place. Off the top of my head, you’re looking for a brand name like “Os-Pho”, or “Osmose”.

    BTW, that’s distilled water, coming out of that pipe. Do you have use for it? You can capture some of it for things like steam irons. My better half uses a steam mop, (don’t ask me why). Do you have some solar panels and a bunch of the old-fashioned lead acid batteries that occasionally need topping off with distilled water? That’s it, right there. No sense buying distilled water and throwing away money and effort on getting distilled water out of your garage.

  3. Vinnie Vin Vin
    2013/07/14 at 11:48 pm #

    Ray, are you sure you want to caulk the bottom of the toilet? I was told you’re supposed to leave a gap so you know whether it floods and pisses out water.

    • Scott
      2013/07/27 at 11:29 am #

      Vinnie,

      10 years of plumbing experience speaking: never installed a toilet without caulking the floor seam. After shimming and checking for rocking (front to back – side to side with good force/weight) and making sure to use the appropriate sized wax gasket, you should not have to worry about water pissing out the seal. It is important to make sure your closet bend (the pipe the closet flange is attached to) has adequate fall and is secure. But then after that just caulk. Dap is great, but I’ve also used grout with great results. The caulking of that seam prevents movement over time, which can cause pissing. Dap will literally glue your toilet to the finished floor reinforcing the closet bolt’s holding power and help keep the wax seal in place. Besides, it just looks cleaner.

  4. Walt Tanner
    2013/07/19 at 6:45 am #

    I tried calling, but message says number is not connected. Is there a different number to call if you are calling from Canada?

  5. mike jones
    2013/07/19 at 7:04 pm #

    fill up the drain w/concrete. buy pump & pipe condensate through the wall outside.

  6. vonb
    2013/07/21 at 9:44 pm #

    While you are at it it looks like the condensate pipe at the AC air handler might not be properly designed. There usually should be a j_trap bend at the high end. The design of which differs a little for positive or negative pressure systems; it prevents air from being sucked back up the pipe into the system, it also is a siphon block but does not perform the same function as sanitary system drain traps. It can be used to clean the line too. Condensate lines should always have an air gap into a drain (do not plumb it in) and should NOT be tied to the sewer/septic drain system. I would ditch the CI drain it will continue to rust with the dripping, at least put an elbow on the end of the white PVC pipe that centers the condensate flow into the drain pipe so there will be less standing wetness on that iron drain bowl. Exit it out where it makes sense, I don’t know about frost issues and clean it out once in a while. I think a sump pump is a bad idea unless needed to make water flow uphill, if you add a sump and pump, it is another thing to clean and will eventually fail/overflow.

  7. Tek Partner Universal Remote
    2013/07/27 at 3:55 pm #

    Simply reviewing the blog post everyone will accept it as it’s accurate so its great reading from a writer that’s writing snippets like this for us to look at

  8. Briana Elvert
    2013/09/04 at 11:20 am #

    There is certainly a great deal to find out about this subject. I love all the points you’ve made.

  9. Dollie Goerdt
    2013/11/10 at 6:02 pm #

    Oh my goodness! Incredible article dude! Thank you, However I am encountering troubles with your RSS. I don’t know why I am unable to subscribe to it. Is there anybody else having the same RSS issues? Anyone that knows the solution will you kindly respond? Thanks!!

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